How To · Fashion · Finish
How to brush your shoes the right way
A shoe brush isn't just for show—it's the easiest way to keep leather and suede looking fresh between deep cleans. Two minutes of attention can add months to your shoes' lifespan.
5 min read · IrisMost men treat shoe brushing like an afterthought—or skip it entirely. That's a mistake. A few strokes with the right brush removes surface dust, restores the nap on leather and suede, and prevents grit from grinding into fibers. It's the difference between shoes that look tired after two months and shoes that look intentional after two years.
The good news: you don't need a closet full of specialty tools. One quality brush handles 90% of your footwear. Here's how to use it so your shoes actually benefit.
Brushing isn't cosmetic—it's preventive maintenance that costs nothing but thirty seconds of your time.
What you'll need.
- 01Horsehair shoe brush
- 02Suede or nubuck brush (brass wire or rubber nub)
- 03Shoe tree
- 04Newspaper or cloth
Step one · 1 minute
Choose the right brush for your material
Horsehair brushes work for smooth leather and most dress shoes. Suede and nubuck need a softer, more delicate touch—look for a brass-wire or rubber-nub brush designed specifically for napped fabrics. If you own both types of shoes, a dual-sided brush saves space. Avoid stiff synthetic bristles; they can scuff leather and damage suede.
Keep your brush dry and store it bristles-up in a shoe tree or on a shelf. Moisture trapped in bristles breeds mold.
Step two · 2 minutes
Remove loose surface dirt
Hold the shoe firmly on a table or in your lap. Starting at the toe, brush in short, deliberate strokes toward the heel. Don't scrub in circles—you'll push dirt deeper into the leather. Work along the sides and around the heel counter. Pay special attention to seams and creases where grit collects. Flip the shoe and repeat on the other side.
Brush outdoors or over a trash can if possible. You'll be surprised how much dust comes off.
Step three · 2 minutes
Restore the nap on suede and nubuck
If your shoes are suede or nubuck, switch to a brass-wire or rubber brush after removing surface dirt. Brush gently in one direction—typically from heel to toe—to lift the nap and restore texture. Don't press hard; let the brush do the work. This step is what makes scuffed suede look alive again. For smooth leather, skip this step entirely.
Suede brushes work best on dry shoes. If your shoes are wet or damp, let them air-dry first.
Step four · 1 minute
Address the sole and welt
Don't forget the edges. Use the brush to clean along the welt (the stitched seam where the upper meets the sole) and the sole itself. Dirt accumulates here and can migrate to the upper if left unchecked. A clean welt also signals that you care for your shoes—it's one of the first things people notice.
If the sole is caked with mud, use a dry cloth or old toothbrush first, then follow with your shoe brush.
Step five · 1 minute
Clean your brush
After brushing, tap the brush bristles-down on a hard surface or against your palm to dislodge trapped dust. Once a month, rinse the bristles under cool running water, shake out excess moisture, and let air-dry bristles-up. A clean brush works better and lasts longer.
Never soak a brush or use hot water—both can damage bristles and the ferrule.
Step six · 3 minutes
Store shoes properly between wears
After brushing, place your shoes on a shoe tree or stuff them loosely with newspaper. This absorbs moisture, maintains shape, and gives the leather time to breathe. Shoes stored flat or crammed in a closet deteriorate faster, no matter how well you brush them. A shoe tree is the single best investment you can make after the shoes themselves.
Rotate your shoes. Wearing the same pair two days in a row traps moisture and accelerates wear.
How to know it works
Well-brushed shoes look intentional and cared-for. The leather or suede should have a consistent sheen, seams should be clean, and the overall surface should feel smooth. You'll also notice your shoes stay looking newer longer—colors remain true, scuffs are less visible, and the material doesn't dull as quickly.
Questions at the mirror.
Can I brush wet shoes?
No. Wet leather and suede are fragile and can be damaged by brushing. Always let shoes air-dry completely first, then brush. If shoes are soaked, stuff them with newspaper and let them dry for 24 hours.
What if my brush leaves marks on the leather?
You're pressing too hard or using the wrong brush. Lighten your touch and make sure you're using a horsehair brush for smooth leather, not a wire brush. Wire brushes are only for suede and nubuck.
How often should I brush my shoes?
After every wear, ideally. It takes two minutes and prevents dirt from setting in. If that's not realistic, brush at least once a week or whenever shoes look dusty.
Do I need different brushes for different shoes?
One horsehair brush handles most leather shoes. If you own a lot of suede or nubuck, a dedicated suede brush is worth the investment. Many quality brushes have dual sides to cover both.