How To · Fashion · Denim
The Art of the Cuff
A deliberate cuff is the simplest way to inject intentionality into your denim. It transforms a standard pair of jeans into a considered element of your silhouette.
5 min read · IrisThe cuff is not merely a solution for jeans that are too long; it is a stylistic punctuation mark. When executed with precision, it draws the eye downward, framing your footwear and providing a clean break between your denim and your shoes.
However, not every jean demands a roll. Over-cuffing can distort the proportions of your leg, while the wrong fold can look sloppy rather than effortless. Whether you are aiming for a rugged workwear aesthetic or a sharp, tailored finish, the goal is always balance.
A cuff should look like a choice, not a mistake.
Step one · 1 minute
The Single Roll
For a subtle, clean aesthetic, fold the bottom hem up once, about one inch. This works best with slim or tapered denim that already hits near the ankle bone. It provides a crisp, minimalist finish that keeps the leg line looking long and uninterrupted. Use this method when you want to show off a hint of sock or a low-profile sneaker.
Ensure the fold is perfectly horizontal; a slanted cuff is the hallmark of a rushed morning.
Step two · 1 minute
The Double Roll
The double roll is the standard for selvedge denim, revealing the internal stitching. Fold the hem up once, then fold it again at the same width. This creates a bulkier, more structured cuff that anchors the bottom of your jeans. It is the ideal choice for heavier-weight denim paired with chunky boots.
If the fabric is stiff, give the fold a firm press with your thumb to lock it in place.
Step three · 1 minute
The Pinroll
Reserved for athletic or tapered cuts, the pinroll creates a tight, tapered look around the ankle. Pinch the excess fabric at the side of the hem, fold it back against itself, and then roll the hem up twice over the fold. This keeps the denim snug against your ankle, perfect for highlighting high-top sneakers.
Do not pull the fabric too tight; you want a clean taper, not a tourniquet.
Step four · 1 minute
The Deep Cuff
For a wider-leg or straight-fit jean, try a single, deep three-inch cuff. This adds weight to the bottom of the jean, which helps drape the fabric more effectively. It creates a vintage, workwear-inspired silhouette that feels heavy and substantial.
Only attempt this on denim that is long enough to support the fold without looking like capris.
Step five · 1 minute
When Not To Cuff
Avoid cuffing jeans that are already cropped or have an intentional raw-edge hem. Cuffing a raw-edge hem ruins the intended texture of the finish. Furthermore, avoid cuffing if your jeans are exceptionally wide-legged, as the extra bulk at the bottom can make you appear shorter.
If you find yourself constantly adjusting the cuff, the jeans are likely the wrong length for your frame.
How to know it works.
A successful cuff enhances your footwear rather than competing with it. If the hem sits exactly where the shoe begins, you have found the golden ratio.
Questions at the mirror.
My cuffs keep falling down. What gives?
The fabric is likely too soft or the roll is too loose. Try a double roll to add weight, or use a tiny piece of double-sided fabric tape.
Does the cuff width matter?
Yes. Match the scale of the cuff to the scale of your footwear. A massive cuff on a delicate shoe looks top-heavy.