How To · Fashion · Build
The Right Way to Hem and Tailor Your Basics
A well-fitted basic is the foundation of everything you wear. Learn when to DIY and when to call a professional—plus the exact techniques that actually work.
5 min read · IrisThe difference between a basic that fits and one that transforms your silhouette often comes down to length. A hem that's even half an inch off can throw your proportions into chaos. Whether you're shortening a t-shirt, tapering jeans, or adjusting a slip dress, knowing how to hem properly—or recognizing when to hand it off—is non-negotiable.
This guide covers the techniques you can execute at home with minimal tools, plus the honest assessment of when a tailor is worth the investment. We're talking about making your basics actually work for your body, not chasing perfection.
A hem that's even half an inch off can throw your proportions into chaos.
Step one · 2 minutes
Measure twice, mark once
Put on the garment with the shoes you'll actually wear it with. Have someone mark the desired length with a fabric pencil or safety pin while you stand naturally—not on your toes. For pants, aim for a quarter-inch break at the front and a slight taper at the back heel. For dresses and skirts, decide if you want them hitting at the knee, mid-thigh, or ankle, then measure from the floor up. Write down the measurement in inches.
Lighting matters. Mark hems in natural daylight or under bright overhead light to avoid mistakes.
Step two · 1 minute
Prepare your workspace
Lay the garment flat on a clean surface—an ironing board works perfectly. Smooth out any wrinkles. If you're hemming pants or a skirt, turn it inside out so the wrong side faces up. This is where you'll work. For t-shirts and knits, you can work from either side, but inside-out keeps your stitches hidden.
Iron the garment before hemming. Creases will throw off your measurements and make stitching uneven.
Step three · 3 minutes
Fold and pin the hem
Fold the fabric up to your marked line, creating a clean fold. For woven fabrics (cotton, linen), fold about half an inch to three-quarters of an inch. For knits, fold a quarter to half inch—they're more forgiving. Pin perpendicular to the fold every two inches, keeping pins close to the edge. The fold should be crisp and even all the way around. Check your measurement again before you commit.
Use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure consistent depth. Uneven folds create uneven hems.
Step four · 2 minutes
Stitch by hand or machine
For hand sewing, use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) on knits and delicate fabrics—it's nearly invisible when done right. For wovens, a simple running stitch works fine if you're okay with visible stitching on the inside. Thread your needle with thread matching your garment color. Make small, even stitches about a quarter-inch apart, catching just a thread or two of the fold. For a machine, use a straight stitch on a medium setting. Sew parallel to the fold, about a quarter-inch from the edge. Remove pins as you go.
Start and end with a knot or backstitch to prevent unraveling. Test your stitch tension on scrap fabric first.
Step five · 1 minute
Trim and finish
Once your hem is stitched, trim the excess fabric to about a quarter-inch above your stitching line. For woven fabrics that fray, use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch to seal the raw edge. For knits, this step is optional—they don't fray the way wovens do. Press your finished hem with an iron on low heat to set it.
Don't skip the pressing step. Heat sets the stitches and gives your hem a professional finish.
Step six · 1 minute
Know when to call a tailor
Hand it off if you're hemming structured trousers with a cuff, tapering legs, or working with delicate fabrics like silk or satin. Tapers require reshaping the side seams—not a beginner move. If the garment cost more than $100, a professional hem ($15–30) is insurance against mistakes. For basics under $50, DIY is perfectly reasonable. A good tailor can also adjust waistbands, take in shoulders, and shorten sleeves—skills that take practice.
Ask your tailor for their turnaround time. Most basics take 5–7 business days.
How to know it works
Your hem should be even all the way around, with no puckering or bunching. The stitches should be invisible from the outside (if you used a ladder stitch) or neat and consistent on the inside. When you wear the garment, the length should feel intentional—not accidentally cropped or dragging.
Questions at the mirror.
My stitches are too tight and the fabric is puckering.
You're pulling too hard on the thread. Loosen your grip and let the needle do the work. For machine sewing, check your tension setting—it should be in the middle range. Practice on scrap fabric first.
The hem came undone after one wash.
Your knot or backstitch wasn't secure enough. Always start and end with at least three backstitches. If hand sewing, make sure your knot is tight and buried inside the fold.
I hemmed it, but it's still not even.
Unpick it completely and start over. Use a measuring tape this time instead of eyeballing. Mark with a pencil every few inches around the garment.
Can I hem a knit without a sewing machine?
Yes. Use a ladder stitch by hand—it's actually ideal for knits because it's stretchy and won't break when the fabric moves. Machine stitches on knits can sometimes snap.