How To · Fashion · Build
The complete guide to suede and nubuck care
Suede and nubuck demand a different approach than leather—but the process is simpler than you think. Here's how to protect your investment and fix common damage.
5 min read · IrisSuede and nubuck are velvet-like finishes created by sanding leather to expose the fuzzy underside. This texture is what makes them feel luxurious—and what makes them vulnerable. Unlike smooth leather, they trap dust, absorb moisture, and show scuffs instantly. The good news: basic maintenance prevents 90% of problems, and most damage is reversible if you act quickly.
The key difference between suede and nubuck matters for care. Suede comes from the underside of the hide and is softer; nubuck is sanded from the top grain and slightly more durable. Both require the same protective approach, but nubuck can handle slightly firmer brushing. This guide covers the tools, techniques, and fixes you need to keep either finish pristine.
A suede brush is your most important tool—use it weekly to prevent dirt from embedding into the nap.
What you'll need.
- 01Soft-bristled suede brush
- 02Suede and nubuck protector spray
- 03Suede eraser (rubber block)
- 04Suede-specific cleaner
- 05Microfiber cloth
- 06Soft toothbrush
- 07Kettle or garment steamer
- 08Dust bag for storage
Step one · 2 minutes
Brush immediately after wear
Use a soft-bristled suede brush in one direction to lift the nap and release surface dust before it settles. Work gently—aggressive brushing flattens the texture. For nubuck, you can use slightly firmer pressure. Brush the entire shoe, paying attention to seams and creases where dirt accumulates. Do this weekly, or immediately after wearing in wet conditions.
Brush when the shoe is completely dry. Wet suede is fragile and brushing will cause permanent damage.
Step two · 3 minutes
Apply protective spray before first wear
Use a suede and nubuck protector spray designed to repel water and stains without darkening the color. Hold the can 6 inches away and apply an even coat to the entire shoe, including the sole and heel. Let it dry completely (usually 24 hours) before wearing. This creates an invisible barrier that buys you time to blot spills before they set. Reapply every 3–4 months or after cleaning.
Test spray on an inconspicuous area first. Some formulas can slightly darken lighter shades.
Step three · 4 minutes
Treat fresh stains with blotting and erasers
For wet stains, blot immediately with a clean, dry cloth—never rub. For dried stains or scuffs, use a suede eraser (a rubber block designed for this texture) and rub gently in one direction. The eraser lifts surface marks without damaging the nap. For stubborn marks, a dry cleaning cloth or even a soft toothbrush can work. Always test on a hidden area first. If the stain persists after erasing, move to the next step.
Keep a microfiber cloth in your bag for emergency blotting. Speed is critical with suede.
Step four · 3 minutes
Deep clean with specialized suede cleaner
For set-in stains or overall grime, use a suede-specific cleaner. Apply it with a soft brush or cloth, working in circular motions. Wipe away excess with a damp cloth, then dry completely with a clean towel. Once dry, brush the nap to restore texture. Avoid water-based cleaners or dish soap—they can leave rings and damage the finish. Professional dry cleaning is an option for valuable pieces, but most stains respond to at-home treatment.
Never soak suede or nubuck. Moisture is the enemy. Work with minimal liquid and dry immediately.
Step five · 2 minutes
Restore flattened nap with steam and brushing
If the texture looks matted or shiny, hold the shoe 12 inches above a kettle spout or use a garment steamer for 10–15 seconds. The heat relaxes the fibers. Immediately brush in one direction while still warm. This restores the soft, fuzzy appearance. For stubborn flattening, repeat once more. This technique works on both suede and nubuck and can revive shoes that look worn.
Be careful with steam near seams—excess moisture can weaken glue bonds. Keep distance and duration brief.
Step six · 1 minute
Store properly to prevent damage
Keep suede and nubuck shoes in a dust bag or box away from direct sunlight, which fades color. Stuff with tissue paper to maintain shape and absorb moisture. Store in a cool, dry place—humidity causes mold and discoloration. Rotate wear to allow shoes to dry completely between outings. Proper storage extends the life of the finish and prevents preventable damage.
Never store in plastic bags, which trap moisture. Use breathable fabric or paper.
How to know it works
Properly maintained suede and nubuck should feel soft and look uniform in color and texture. Stains should fade or disappear, and the nap should lift back to its original plush appearance. If you're brushing regularly and protecting with spray, you'll notice dirt doesn't stick as easily and spills bead up instead of absorbing.
Questions at the mirror.
Can I use regular leather cleaner on suede?
No. Suede and nubuck are too delicate for standard leather products, which can darken the color and damage the nap. Always use formulas specifically labeled for suede or nubuck.
What if my suede gets wet?
Blot immediately with a dry cloth and let air dry at room temperature, away from direct heat or sunlight. Never use a hair dryer—heat can set stains and warp the shoe. Once dry, brush gently to restore texture.
Is professional cleaning worth it?
For valuable or delicate pieces, yes. Professional cleaners have industrial equipment and expertise for stubborn stains. For routine maintenance and minor marks, at-home care is sufficient and more economical.
Can I wear suede in winter or rain?
With caution. Apply protective spray before winter wear and reapply after cleaning. Avoid puddles and salt. If your shoes get wet, dry them properly. Many people reserve suede for dry seasons, but treated suede can handle light moisture.
Why does my suede look shiny or worn?
The nap has flattened from friction or moisture. This is normal wear. Use the steam and brush technique to restore texture. If it happens quickly, you may need to reapply protector spray or adjust how you're storing the shoes.