How To · Fashion · Fit
The Guide to Proper Hemming
A proper hem is the difference between trousers that fit and trousers that flatter. Whether you're taking them to a tailor or doing it yourself, here's what you need to know.
5 min read · IrisThe hem is where trousers either look intentional or accidental. Too long and they bunch at your ankles; too short and they read unfinished. The good news: hemming is one of the most forgiving alterations, and understanding the basics means you'll never settle for an ill-fitting length again.
Whether you're working with a tailor or attempting this at home, the principle is the same: measure twice, mark once, and cut with intention. Let's walk through the process.
A proper hem transforms trousers from 'almost right' to 'exactly mine.'
Step one · 2 minutes
Wear the shoes you'll actually wear with these trousers
Put on the trousers with the exact heel height you plan to wear them with—whether that's flats, loafers, or heels. Stand in front of a mirror and assess where the fabric naturally falls. The hem should graze the top of your shoe without breaking or bunching. This is your baseline.
If you're between heel heights, default to the lower one. You can always adjust later.
Step two · 1 minute
Mark your length with pins or chalk
Have someone pin the hem at the correct length while you stand naturally (not on your tiptoes). If you're working alone, use a full-length mirror and pin as you go around. Mark the hem line with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil, creating a clear guide. The line should be parallel to the floor—use a level if you're being meticulous.
Pin the inside of the hem first so you can see the outside length without obstruction.
Step three · 2 minutes
Measure the allowance you need for the hem
A standard trouser hem requires 1.5 to 2 inches of fabric folded up inside the leg. Measure from your chalk line down to where you'll cut. For most fabrics, 1.5 inches is sufficient; thicker wools may need 2 inches for durability. Mark this cutting line clearly so you don't accidentally cut too short.
Always cut more conservatively than you think. You can take up more fabric later; you cannot add it back.
Step four · 2 minutes
Cut and fold the hem
Cut along your line with sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter, cutting straight across the leg. Fold the raw edge up 0.5 inches and press with an iron to create a clean fold. Then fold that folded edge up again to meet your chalk line, creating a double-folded hem that encases the raw edge. Press firmly.
A double-fold hem looks professional and prevents fraying, even if you're hand-stitching.
Step five · 2 minutes
Stitch or have it stitched
If you're using a sewing machine, use a straight stitch and thread that matches your trousers. Stitch as close to the inner fold as possible, keeping tension even. If you're hand-stitching, use a blind stitch to keep stitches invisible from the outside. If you're taking this to a tailor, they'll do this step for you—which is honestly the easiest route.
Test your machine on scrap fabric first. A wobbly line is more noticeable than a slightly imperfect length.
Step six · 1 minute
Press and try on
Press the finished hem with an iron to set the stitches and create a crisp fold. Put the trousers on with your intended shoes and check the length one final time. The hem should sit just above the shoe without tension or excess fabric. Walk around to confirm the length feels right in motion.
If the hem is slightly long, you can always take it up a bit more. If it's slightly short, accept it—this is as good as it gets.
How to know it works
A properly hemmed trouser sits at the correct length without pulling, bunching, or breaking awkwardly at the ankle. The hem should be invisible from the outside and secure enough to withstand regular wear and washing.
Questions at the mirror.
What if I hemmed too short?
Unfortunately, you cannot add length back if you cut too much fabric away. This is why conservative cutting is essential. If you have at least 0.5 inches of fabric left in the original hem allowance, a tailor may be able to carefully unpick and re-hem, but it's not guaranteed. Learn from it and measure more carefully next time.
Should I hem before or after washing new trousers?
Always wash first. Fabric shrinks, especially cotton and linen blends. Hem after the first wash and dry to account for any shrinkage. This prevents the hem from becoming too short after laundering.
Can I use hem tape instead of stitching?
Hem tape is a quick fix for temporary hemming, but it's not durable for everyday wear. The adhesive breaks down after a few washes. Use it only for emergency situations or costume pieces. For permanent hemming, stitching is the only reliable option.
Why do tailor hems look better than mine?
Tailors have industrial machines, years of practice, and the ability to work from the inside of the leg without contorting themselves. They also use thread that matches perfectly and maintain consistent tension. If your hand-stitching looks imperfect, a tailor is worth the $15–$25 investment.