How To · Fashion · Basics
The Art of Hemming: A Practical Guide to Perfect Lengths
A proper hem transforms a garment from ill-fitting to intentional. Whether you're shortening a thrifted treasure or adjusting new basics, these techniques work for almost every fabric.
5 min read · IrisHemming is the most forgiving alteration you can learn. Unlike taking in a waist or adjusting shoulders, a hem requires only basic supplies, patience, and a willingness to work slowly. The payoff is immediate: clothes that fit your actual body instead of some theoretical standard size.
You have two viable routes—hand-stitching for delicate fabrics and invisible results, or machine-stitching for durability and speed. Both methods start with the same crucial step: measuring correctly. Get this wrong, and no stitch will save you.
The difference between a rushed hem and a considered one is visible from across a room.
Step One · 3 minutes
Measure twice, cut never
Put on the garment with the shoes you'll actually wear it with. Stand in front of a mirror and have someone mark where the hem should hit using tailor's chalk or a fabric pen—ideally at your ankle bone for pants, just below the knee for most skirts. Measure from that mark to the current hem edge. Write this number down. Repeat on at least three points around the garment; most bodies aren't perfectly symmetrical, and neither are most cuts.
If you're hemming alone, use your phone's camera on selfie mode to capture the marked line from the front and sides.
Step Two · 5 minutes
Prepare your garment
Lay the garment flat on a clean surface. If it's been worn, give it a gentle press with an iron to remove wrinkles—this makes marking and measuring far more accurate. For pants, turn them inside out. For skirts and dresses, you can work either way, but inside-out gives you more control. Smooth out any bunching at the hem.
Press the garment while it's still slightly damp from washing; the fabric will accept fold lines more readily.
Step Three · 5 minutes
Mark and fold your new hemline
Using your measurement from step one, mark a line parallel to the current hem using tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. Make small marks every 2–3 inches around the entire garment. Fold the fabric up along this line, wrong sides together, and press with an iron. This creates a crisp fold that guides your stitching. For a standard hem, fold up another half-inch to an inch and press again—this creates the fold that will be stitched.
Use a ruler or measuring tape held vertically to ensure your fold is parallel to the original hem, not the floor.
Step Four · 10 minutes
Hand-stitch for invisible results
Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric (not your skin tone). Knot the end. Starting at an inconspicuous seam, slip your needle between the fold of the hem and the main fabric, bringing it out about a quarter-inch away. Pick up just two or three threads from the garment body directly above, then slip back into the fold. Repeat this motion, keeping stitches small and tension even. You're aiming for stitches that are invisible from the outside. Work your way around the entire hem.
A blind hem stitch is nearly invisible because the thread runs inside the fold; take your time here rather than rushing.
Step Five · 5 minutes
Machine-stitch for durability
If using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch and thread it with matching thread. Stitch along the inner fold of your hem, about a quarter-inch from the edge. Keep your seam as straight as possible by using the machine's guides. For extra durability on pants, stitch a second line a quarter-inch above the first. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure.
Use a walking foot if your machine has one; it prevents stretching on knits and delicate fabrics.
Step Six · 2 minutes
Press and try on
Once stitching is complete, press the hem from the inside with an iron set to the appropriate temperature for your fabric. Try on the garment with the shoes you'll wear it with. Check the length from all angles in a mirror. If it's not quite right, you can adjust by removing stitches and re-hemming—this is why starting with a conservative measurement matters.
Trim any excess fabric from inside the hem, leaving about a quarter-inch, to reduce bulk.
How to know your hem is done right
A finished hem should be invisible from the outside, sit at the exact length you measured, and feel secure when you tug gently on the fabric. The garment should drape naturally without pulling or puckering.
Questions at the mirror.
My hand-stitched hem keeps coming loose. What am I doing wrong?
You're likely not securing your knot well enough at the start and end. Make a small knot at the end of your thread, then take two or three small stitches in the same spot before beginning your hem stitch. This anchors the thread. Also check that your stitches aren't too loose; they should be snug but not tight enough to pucker the fabric.
The hem looks puckered or wavy. How do I fix this?
Puckering usually means you've pulled too tightly while stitching or your fold wasn't crisp enough. Remove the stitches, re-press the fold with an iron, and stitch again with lighter tension. On knits, consider using a ballpoint needle, which won't split fibers.
Can I hem stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits?
Yes, but use a ballpoint needle and a slight zigzag stitch on your machine, or hand-stitch with a flexible stitch. Avoid pulling the fabric while stitching. For very stretchy knits, consider a narrow rolled hem or a twin-needle hem for extra give.
My hem is uneven—one side is longer than the other. Can I fix it?
Absolutely. Remove the stitches from the longer side, re-measure and re-fold that section, and re-stitch. This is why measuring at multiple points matters; most people's bodies aren't perfectly symmetrical, and that's okay.