How To · Fashion · Basics
How to Hem Jeans Like a Pro
A proper hem transforms ill-fitting jeans into a polished staple. Learn the hand-stitch method for precision and the machine method for speed—both deliver results that last.
5 min read · IrisJeans arrive in standard lengths, which means most of us need to adjust them. A professional tailor charges $20–$40 per pair, but hemming is one of the easiest alterations to DIY. Whether you choose hand-stitching for invisibility or a machine stitch for durability, the technique is straightforward and requires only basic supplies you likely already own.
The key is measuring twice, cutting once, and understanding that denim forgives imperfection better than silk ever will. Even a slightly uneven hem reads as intentional on jeans. This guide covers both methods so you can pick the approach that matches your skill level and the jean style you're working with.
Denim forgives imperfection better than silk ever will—even a slightly uneven hem reads as intentional.
What you'll need.
- 01Fabric scissors (sharp, not kitchen shears)
- 02Measuring tape and ruler
- 03Tailor's chalk or fabric pen
- 04Iron and pressing cloth
- 05Pins (for holding fold in place)
- 06Needle and thread (hand method) or sewing machine (machine method)
Step one · 1 minute
Try on and mark your length
Put on the jeans with the shoes you'll wear them with most often. Have someone mark the hem line with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen at the point where the jean just grazes the top of your shoe. Stand naturally—no stretching or slouching. Mark both legs at the same height from the ground. This is your cutting line.
If you're hemming alone, use a full-length mirror and mark with chalk, then measure from the ground up to confirm both legs are even.
Step two · 2 minutes
Measure and cut the excess fabric
Remove the jeans and lay them flat on a clean surface. Measure 1.5 inches below your chalk mark and draw a new line—this is your cut line. The extra fabric becomes your hem allowance. Use sharp fabric scissors to cut straight across both legs. Don't use regular scissors; they crush denim fibers and create fraying. Cut slowly and deliberately.
If your jeans have a raw hem already, you may only need to trim 0.5 inches to remove distressing and create a clean edge.
Step three · 2 minutes
Fold and press the hem (hand-stitch method)
Fold the cut edge up 0.75 inches and press with an iron on medium heat. Fold it up again another 0.75 inches and press again. You now have a double-folded hem that won't fray. Pin along the fold to hold it in place. This creates a clean, finished edge that looks professional from both sides.
Use a pressing cloth between the iron and denim to avoid shine marks on dark jeans.
Step four · 3 minutes
Hand-stitch or machine-stitch the hem
For hand-stitching: Thread a needle with thread that matches your jeans. Use a slip stitch, catching just two threads of the outer denim layer, then moving into the folded hem. Space stitches about 0.25 inches apart. This creates an invisible hem on the outside. For machine-stitching: Remove pins and sew along the fold line using a straight stitch. Use thread that matches your jeans and backstitch at the start and end for security.
Hand-stitching takes longer but is invisible from the outside. Machine-stitching is faster and more durable for everyday wear.
Step five · 1 minute
Press and try on
Press the finished hem with an iron to set the stitches and flatten any puckering. Try on the jeans with your marked shoes to confirm the length is correct. The hem should sit just at the top of your shoe, not bunching or dragging. If the length is off by more than 0.25 inches, you can adjust by carefully removing a few stitches and re-hemming.
A slight crease at the hem is normal and actually looks more polished than a completely flat edge.
Step six · 0 minutes
Maintain your hem
Wash your hemmed jeans inside out in cold water to protect the stitching. Dry flat or on a gentle cycle. If you notice loose threads after a few wears, trim them with scissors rather than pulling. Hand-stitched hems may need a reinforcement stitch every 12–18 months with regular wear; machine-stitched hems are more durable and rarely need repair.
Store jeans folded rather than hung to reduce stress on the hem seam.
How to know it works
A successful hem sits at the correct length without bunching, has even stitching (or no visible stitches if hand-sewn), and holds up through multiple washes. The fold should be crisp and the hem should lie flat against your leg.
Questions at the mirror.
Can I hem stretch denim or jeggings?
Yes, but use a ballpoint needle (hand or machine) to avoid snagging the fabric. Stretch fabrics need a slightly looser stitch tension than rigid denim, so test on a scrap first if using a machine.
What if I cut too much and the hem is now too short?
You can't add length once it's cut. For future hems, always leave at least 1.5 inches of excess fabric. If this pair is now unwearable, consider donating them or repurposing into shorts.
Should I hem before or after my first wash?
Hem after your first wash. Denim shrinks slightly in the first wash, especially in the length. Hemming pre-wash means the jeans will be too short after laundering.
Can I use fabric glue instead of stitching?
Hem tape and fabric glue are not reliable for jeans. The constant movement and friction of wearing and washing will break the bond. Stitching—by hand or machine—is the only durable method.