How To · Fashion · Build
How to Hem Your Own Jeans
A proper hem transforms how jeans sit on your frame—and you don't need a tailor's invoice to get there. Here's the cleanest method for a lasting finish.
5 min read · IrisJeans arrive too long. It's almost a guarantee. Rather than let them pool at your ankles or pay $20–40 for a professional hem, you can do this yourself in under an hour with a needle, thread, and patience.
The hand-stitch method—a simple running stitch or backstitch on the inside of the hem—is invisible from the outside and holds up through countless washes. No sewing machine required, though we'll cover that option too.
The key is measuring twice while wearing the shoes you'll actually walk in.
Step one · 5 minutes
Measure your inseam while wearing the right shoes
Put on the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear them with most often. Stand in front of a mirror and have someone measure from the inside of your crotch seam down to where the hem should break at your shoe—typically a quarter-inch above the heel. Write this number down. Repeat on both legs; most people have a slight difference. Use the shorter measurement to avoid one leg being too long.
If you're flying solo, measure from the crotch seam to the floor, then subtract half an inch. It's not perfect, but it works.
Step two · 5 minutes
Try on and mark the hem line
Put the jeans back on and have your helper use tailor's chalk or a fabric pen to mark a light line all the way around the leg at your target inseam length. Make small marks every inch or so rather than one continuous line—it's easier to follow and less likely to smudge. Remove the jeans and lay them flat on a clean surface.
Chalk is forgiving; you can brush it off and re-mark if needed. Fabric pen is permanent, so go slow.
Step three · 5 minutes
Fold and pin the hem
Fold the leg up along your chalk line so the inside of the original hem faces inward. The fold should be crisp. Pin horizontally every two inches to hold it in place. Try the jeans on once more to confirm the length is right—this is your last chance to adjust before you stitch.
If the original hem is bulky (raw denim, selvedge), you can trim it down to half an inch before folding to reduce bulk.
Step four · 20 minutes
Stitch the hem by hand or machine
For hand-stitching: Thread a needle with thread that matches your jeans (or use navy or black for versatility). Tie a knot at the end. Starting on the inside of the leg, push the needle through the fold of the hem and catch just two or three threads of the outer fabric—not all the way through. This keeps stitches invisible from the outside. Use a simple running stitch or backstitch, working your way around the leg. Knot off when you reach the starting point. For machine-stitching: Use a straight stitch and sew about a quarter-inch from the fold, following your chalk marks. Backstitch at the start and end.
Hand-stitching takes longer but is nearly invisible and flexible enough to move with the fabric. Machine-stitching is faster and more durable for heavy wear.
Step five · 5 minutes
Trim excess and finish
Once stitched, trim the original hem down to about a quarter-inch from your new stitch line. If the raw edge looks frayed, a quick zigzag stitch on a machine or a dab of fray check will prevent unraveling. Remove any remaining chalk marks with a damp cloth.
Don't cut too close to your stitching or you risk the hem coming loose.
Step six · 5 minutes
Try on and wash
Put the jeans on and walk around. The hem should feel secure and sit exactly where you want it. Wash the jeans inside-out in cold water to set the stitches and confirm the length holds. If everything looks good, you're done.
Wash inside-out and avoid the dryer for the first few washes to let the stitches fully set.
How to know it works
A good hem sits flush against your shoe without bunching or pulling. The stitches should be tight enough that you can't wiggle them loose by hand, and invisible from the outside. After a wash, the length shouldn't shift.
Questions at the mirror.
Can I hem stretch denim or skinny jeans the same way?
Yes, but be extra careful not to pull the fabric taut while measuring or stitching. Stretch denim needs a slightly looser stitch so it can move with the fabric. Hand-stitching is actually better for stretch fabrics than machine-stitching.
What if I mess up and the hem is crooked?
Carefully cut or pull out the stitches, re-mark the line, and stitch again. Denim is forgiving; small needle holes won't show. Just take your time the second time around.
Do I have to use matching thread?
No. Navy, black, or dark gray thread works on almost any jean. The stitches are hidden on the inside anyway. Some people use contrasting thread for a visible, intentional look—it's a style choice.
How long does a hand-stitched hem last?
A properly stitched hem can last years and multiple washes. If a stitch does break, it's easy to re-stitch just that section rather than re-doing the whole hem.