How To · Fashion · Weekend Essentials
How to hem and care for denim properly
A proper hem transforms how denim sits on your frame, while the right care routine keeps your jeans looking intentional rather than tired. Here's what actually works.
5 min read · IrisDenim is deceptively simple—until you realize that an inch too long fundamentally changes how the fabric interacts with your shoe and leg. The difference between a sloppy hem and a clean one isn't subtle. It's the difference between looking like you own your clothes and looking like they own you.
Caring for denim is equally straightforward once you stop treating it like regular cotton. These jeans will develop character over time, but only if you respect the fabric enough to wash it thoughtfully and store it properly. This guide covers both the technical side of hemming and the behavioral shifts that keep denim looking sharp for years.
A proper hem isn't about perfection—it's about intention.
What you'll need.
- 01Measuring tape
- 02Fabric pen or tailor's chalk
- 03Needle and thread (matching color)
- 04Pins
- 05Scissors
- 06Iron (optional, to set fold)
- 07Mild detergent
- 08Clothesline or drying rack
- 09Hanger with clips or regular hanger
Step one · 3 minutes
Measure your inseam while wearing the shoes you'll actually wear
Put on the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear most often—sneakers, boots, loafers, whatever. Stand naturally in front of a mirror. The hem should kiss the top of your shoe without bunching or dragging. Measure from the crotch seam down to where you want the hem to land. Mark this length with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk on the inside of both legs. This single step prevents the most common hemming mistake: measuring without context.
If you're between sizes or shoes, aim for a quarter-inch break at the front of your shoe. This gives you flexibility.
Step two · 2 minutes
Decide between a tailor and DIY
A tailor costs $15–40 and guarantees a clean, professional finish. They'll use a machine stitch that won't unravel and will match the original thread color. If you're hemming expensive or selvedge denim, this is worth it. DIY hemming with a needle and thread works for raw denim or casual pairs, but requires patience and a steady hand. Be honest about your skill level here—a botched hem is harder to fix than paying upfront.
Many dry cleaners offer hemming services. Call ahead and ask about turnaround time.
Step three · 15 minutes
If DIY hemming: fold, pin, and stitch
Fold the hem up to your marked line on the inside of the leg. Pin it in place every two inches, keeping the fold straight and even. Thread a needle with thread that matches your denim as closely as possible. Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to sew the fold closed—this creates a seam that doesn't show on the outside. Work slowly and keep your stitches small and tight. Aim for stitches about a quarter-inch apart. Once you've sewn the entire hem, tie off the thread securely on the inside.
Practice the ladder stitch on scrap fabric first. It's easier than it sounds but requires a light touch.
Step four · 5 minutes
Wash your denim before wearing it hard
New denim shrinks. Wash it inside-out in cold water with like colors, using minimal detergent. Skip the dryer entirely—hang it to dry. This single wash prevents the hem from becoming too short after a few months of wear. If you've had a tailor hem your jeans, ask them when to wash. Some tailors prefer to hem after the first wash to account for shrinkage.
Turn your jeans inside-out every time you wash. This protects the color and reduces fading.
Step five · 10 minutes per wash cycle
Establish a washing rhythm that respects the fabric
Wash denim every 5–7 wears, not after every wear. This preserves the indigo dye and prevents unnecessary wear on seams and fabric. When you do wash, use cold water, turn the jeans inside-out, and air-dry them. Hot water fades color and causes shrinkage. The dryer is the enemy of denim longevity—heat weakens fibers and causes the hem to shrink unpredictably. If you need to freshen jeans between washes, hang them outside or in a bathroom while you shower.
Spot-clean stains with a damp cloth and mild soap before washing the entire pair.
Step six · 2 minutes
Store denim flat or folded, never bunched
Hang denim by the waistband or fold it neatly on a shelf. Bunching creates permanent creases and weakens fabric at stress points. If you hang them, use a clip hanger or fold them over a regular hanger to distribute weight evenly. Store them away from direct sunlight to prevent uneven fading. Proper storage keeps the hem crisp and the overall shape intact over years of wear.
If your hem starts to fray after months of wear, a quick stitch or a trip to the tailor will refresh it.
How to know it works.
A successful hem sits cleanly at the top of your shoe with minimal break in the fabric. Your denim should feel the same after six months of regular wear—no unexpected shrinkage, no fraying, no color loss. The fabric should develop a natural patina and fading pattern, not look faded or worn out.
Questions at the mirror.
My hem came undone after a few weeks. What went wrong?
Either the thread wasn't secured properly at the end, or the stitch was too loose. If you DIY hemmed, re-stitch it with smaller, tighter stitches. If a tailor did it, bring the jeans back—they should stand behind their work.
I washed my jeans and now the hem is too short. Can I fix this?
Unfortunately, no. This is why measuring and washing before hemming matters. For future pairs, always wash new denim before hemming, or ask your tailor to account for shrinkage.
Should I hem raw (unwashed) or sanforized denim?
Sanforized denim is pre-shrunk and safe to hem immediately. Raw denim should be washed once before hemming to account for shrinkage. Ask the retailer if you're unsure.
How often should I re-hem my jeans?
A well-executed hem lasts as long as the jeans do. Only re-hem if the original hem frays significantly or if you change your regular shoes to a very different style.