How To · Fashion · Alterations & Tailoring
The ultimate guide to hemming pants, skirts, and dresses
A proper hem transforms a garment from sloppy to polished—and you don't need expensive tailoring to get it right. Whether you're working with denim or silk, we'll walk you through every method.
5 min read · IrisA hem is the difference between 'I thrifted this' and 'I invested in this.' The right length changes everything—it elongates your leg, balances proportions, and signals that you actually care about fit. The good news: hemming is one of the most forgiving alterations to learn, and you can do it at home with minimal tools.
This guide covers hand-stitching (the most durable method), machine hemming (the fastest), and the honest truth about when a professional tailor is worth the money. We'll address common fabrics—denim, knits, silk, and linen—and show you how to measure, mark, and execute a hem that lasts.
The blind stitch is invisible from the outside and creates a hem that moves naturally with the fabric instead of pulling or bunching.
What you'll need.
- 01Tailor's chalk or fabric pencil
- 02Measuring tape
- 03Pins
- 04Sharp fabric scissors
- 05Iron and ironing board
- 06Hand-sewing needle
- 07Thread matching your garment
- 08Sewing machine (optional)
- 09Thimble (optional)
Step one · 5 minutes
Measure and mark your hem length
Put on the garment with the shoes you'll actually wear it with. Have someone mark the desired length with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil—ideally 1/2 inch from the floor for pants, or at your natural knee for skirts. For dresses, decide whether you want them to hit mid-knee, knee, or below. Mark all the way around the garment, checking that the line is level by having your helper use a measuring tape or hem gauge from the floor up.
If you're hemming alone, stand on a chair and use a full-length mirror, or mark the length, take a photo, and reference it as you work.
Step two · 5 minutes
Measure and cut your hem allowance
Fold the garment up along your marked line and pin it in place. The hem allowance—the fabric between your fold and the raw edge—should be 1.5 to 2 inches for most garments. For knits or stretchy fabrics, use 1 inch to avoid bulk. Try the garment on again to confirm the length is correct. Once you're satisfied, trim the excess fabric to 1.5 inches using sharp scissors, leaving a clean edge parallel to your fold.
Don't cut too close to the fold; you need that fabric to work with. If you're nervous, leave 2 inches and trim gradually.
Step three · 10 minutes
Press and finish the raw edge
Unfold the hem and press the fold line with an iron on the appropriate heat setting for your fabric. This creates a crisp crease that makes stitching easier. Then fold the raw edge up 1/4 inch and press again—this prevents fraying and creates a finished edge. For knits, you can skip this step and use a zigzag stitch instead. For woven fabrics like cotton or linen, this double-fold finish is essential for durability.
Use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton towel works) between the iron and delicate fabrics like silk to avoid shine marks.
Step four · 15 minutes
Hand-stitch using the blind stitch (the professional method)
Thread a needle with thread matching your garment and knot the end. Starting inside the fold of the hem, bring the needle out through the fold so the knot is hidden. Take a tiny stitch (1/8 inch) in the garment body directly opposite where your thread emerges, then slide the needle through the fold for about 1/4 inch before bringing it back out. Repeat this pattern all the way around. Your stitches should be invisible from the outside and spaced evenly. This takes patience but creates a hem that moves naturally and lasts for years.
Use thread that matches your garment, not white or black thread. If you can't find an exact match, go one shade darker—it's less visible than lighter thread.
Step five · 5 minutes
Machine-stitch for speed (the practical method)
If hand-stitching feels tedious, fold your hem to the desired length, pin it in place, and use a sewing machine with a straight stitch or blind-stitch foot (most machines have this). Sew about 1/4 inch from the fold, using matching thread. A machine hem is durable and takes minutes, though it's slightly less invisible than a hand-stitched hem. For knits, use a stretch or ballpoint needle and a zigzag stitch to prevent puckering.
Test your stitch on scrap fabric first. Adjust tension if the thread is bunching or breaking.
Step six · 5 minutes
Press and try on
Once your hem is stitched, press it flat with an iron to set the stitches and remove any puckering. Try the garment on with the shoes you'll wear it with and check the length in natural light and in a mirror. The hem should hang straight and feel comfortable. If you notice any puckering, bunching, or uneven length, you can carefully remove stitches with a seam ripper and re-stitch.
A final press makes all the difference. Don't skip this step—it's what separates a homemade hem from a professional one.
How to know your hem is done right
A good hem should be invisible from the outside, hang straight without puckering or pulling, and feel soft and flexible. The stitches should be secure enough to withstand regular wear and washing. If you can see the stitching from the front, or if the hem is bunching or wavy, you may need to adjust your technique or stitch tension.
Questions at the mirror.
My thread keeps breaking while hand-stitching. What am I doing wrong?
You're likely pulling too tightly. The blind stitch should be gentle and loose—the fabric does the work, not the thread. Also check that your needle isn't too small (use a size 7 or 8) and that your thread isn't tangled or frayed. If you're using old thread, it may be brittle; fresh thread makes a difference.
Can I use fabric glue or hem tape instead of stitching?
Hem tape works for temporary fixes on lightweight fabrics, but it won't survive repeated washing or wearing. It's best reserved for emergency hems on borrowed clothes. For anything you own and plan to wear regularly, stitching is worth the time.
My machine hem is puckering. How do I fix it?
Puckering usually means your tension is too tight. Loosen the top tension slightly and test on scrap fabric. Also make sure you're using the right needle for your fabric (ballpoint for knits, universal for wovens) and that your presser foot is lowered before you start sewing.
When should I take something to a professional tailor instead of hemming it myself?
Consider a tailor for delicate fabrics (silk charmeuse, lace), structured garments (tailored trousers, blazers), or if the hem needs to be taken up more than 3 inches. Tailors also handle curved hems and hems on stretchy fabrics better. For basic straight hems on cotton, denim, or linen, you've got this.