How To · Fashion · Alterations
How to Hem Jeans Without Losing the Original Hem
The factory hem is part of your jeans' DNA. Instead of cutting it off, fold it inward and stitch above it—a technique that keeps the original edge intact while shortening the leg.
5 min read · IrisThat crisp, slightly frayed factory hem on your jeans isn't just aesthetic—it's a mark of authenticity that disappears the moment a tailor's scissors touch it. If you've ever hemmed a pair only to regret losing that signature edge, there's a better way. By folding the original hem upward into the leg instead of cutting it away, you preserve the authentic finish while still achieving the perfect inseam length.
This technique works best on raw or selvedge denim, where the original edge is a design feature, but it's equally effective on any jean you want to keep looking factory-fresh. The process requires only basic hand-stitching skills and takes about 25 minutes from start to finish.
The factory hem is your jeans' signature. Fold it inward, and it becomes part of the alteration rather than a casualty of it.
What you'll need.
- 01Fabric pencil or tailor's chalk
- 02Measuring tape
- 03Sewing pins (at least 12)
- 04Needle (size 8 or 9 for denim)
- 05Thread (matching denim color)
- 06Scissors or seam ripper
- 07Iron and ironing board
- 08Thimble (optional, protects your finger)
Step one · 3 minutes
Try on and mark your desired length
Put on the jeans with the shoes you'll wear them with. Have someone mark the desired hem length with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk on the inside of both legs, about ½ inch above where you want the final hem to sit. This extra half-inch accounts for the fold. Take off the jeans and measure from the crotch seam to your mark on both legs to ensure they're even.
Mark while standing naturally. Sitting changes your proportions and will throw off your measurements.
Step two · 2 minutes
Fold the original hem upward
Lay one pant leg flat on your work surface with the inside facing up. Fold the original hem (the factory-finished edge) upward so it aligns with your pencil mark. The raw edge of the original hem should now be pointing toward the crotch. Press the fold firmly with your fingers to create a clean crease. Repeat on the second leg.
Use a pressing cloth if you have one to avoid leaving marks on the denim.
Step three · 5 minutes
Pin the fold in place
Working with one leg at a time, insert pins perpendicular to the fold every 2 inches along the entire circumference of the pant leg. Pins should go through all layers—the folded hem, the main pant leg, and the inseam. This prevents shifting while you stitch. Check that the fold remains even and the original hem edge is fully contained within the leg.
Pin from the inside of the leg so the pins won't be visible when you wear the jeans.
Step four · 10 minutes
Stitch above the fold with a ladder stitch
Thread your needle and knot the end. Starting at an inseam, bring the needle up through the fold line (where the original hem meets the main pant leg). Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch): bring the needle horizontally through the fold for about ¼ inch, then exit and cross diagonally to the opposite side of the pant leg, go horizontal again for ¼ inch, then cross back. This creates a zigzag pattern that's nearly invisible. Work your way around the entire leg, keeping stitches ¼ inch apart.
Keep tension loose—tight stitches will pucker the fabric. The stitch should disappear into the fold.
Step five · 3 minutes
Secure the thread and remove pins
When you reach the starting point, take a few small stitches in place to secure the thread, then knot and trim. Remove all pins carefully. Repeat the entire process on the second pant leg, matching the stitch line and fold placement exactly.
If your first leg took 10 minutes, the second should take 8—you'll develop a rhythm.
Step six · 2 minutes
Press and try on
Lay the jeans flat and use a warm iron (on the cotton setting) to press the new hem from the inside, creating a sharp crease. Turn the jeans right-side out and try them on. The hem should sit at your desired length, and the original factory edge should be visible as a small detail peeking out from inside the leg when you cuff or roll them.
If you want the original hem more visible, you can intentionally cuff the jeans to show it off.
How to know it works
A successful hem preserves the original edge while keeping the leg length precise and the stitching invisible from the outside. The fold should be smooth and even, with no puckering or loose threads.
Questions at the mirror.
What if my jeans have a thick, bulky original hem?
Thicker hems (common on heritage or raw denim) may create a noticeable ridge. Trim the original hem down to about ½ inch wide before folding, then proceed as normal. You'll still preserve the factory edge without excess bulk.
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-stitching?
Yes, but use a topstitch thread and a straight stitch about ⅜ inch above the fold. The stitching will be visible on the outside, which some prefer for a more intentional look. Backstitch at the start and end to secure.
What if I make a mistake and the legs end up uneven?
Carefully remove the stitches with a seam ripper, unfold, and re-mark. The fabric won't be damaged. You can re-fold and stitch as many times as needed.
Will this method work on stretch denim?
It works, but stretch denim can be trickier because it's less stable. Use a ladder stitch and pin more frequently (every 1.5 inches instead of 2) to prevent shifting while you work.