How To · Fashion · Denim Care
How to Hem Jeans Without Losing the Original Hem
The factory hem on your jeans isn't just aesthetic—it's a structural anchor that prevents fraying and maintains the jean's integrity. Here's how to shorten without sacrificing it.
5 min read · IrisMost people assume hemming means cutting off the original hem and starting fresh. Wrong. That factory edge—especially on raw or selvedge denim—is doing real work: it prevents the weave from unraveling, it's already perfectly finished, and it's a subtle marker of quality. Cutting it away means you're creating extra work and losing a structural benefit.
The smarter approach is to work above the original hem, folding the fabric up and securing it without ever touching that bottom edge. It takes slightly longer than a basic hem, but you'll end up with a jean that looks intentional and lasts longer.
The factory hem is your friend. Preserve it, and your jeans will thank you.
What you'll need.
- 01Fabric pencil or tailor's chalk
- 02Measuring tape
- 03Iron and ironing board
- 04Needle and thread (matching denim color)
- 05Sewing machine (optional but recommended)
- 06Scissors
Step one · 5 minutes
Try on and mark your length
Put on the jeans with the shoes you'll actually wear them with—this matters. Stand in front of a mirror and have someone mark where the hem should hit with a fabric pencil or chalk. The ideal break is just touching the top of your shoe, with a tiny fold at the ankle. Mark the inside of both legs at the same height. Don't eyeball this; precision here saves rework later.
If you're hemming alone, sit down, mark where the fabric naturally falls, then stand and double-check in a mirror.
Step two · 5 minutes
Measure the distance from mark to original hem
Lay the jeans flat on a table, inside leg facing up. Measure from your mark down to the original hem (the finished edge at the very bottom). Write this number down—let's say it's 2.5 inches. This is the amount of fabric you're working with. You'll fold this excess up and stitch it down, keeping the original hem visible and intact at the very bottom.
Measure both legs separately; they're often slightly different lengths due to wear or how the denim was originally cut.
Step three · 10 minutes
Fold and press the new hemline
Starting at one leg, fold the fabric up along your pencil mark, wrong sides together. The original hem should now be folded inside, hidden. Use an iron on medium heat to press this fold firmly—this creates a crease that guides your stitching and keeps the fold stable. Press the entire leg, moving slowly. Let it cool before moving to the next leg.
Press from the inside of the leg first, then flip and press the outside. This ensures the fold is even and won't shift.
Step four · 15 minutes
Hand-stitch or machine-stitch the fold
For a clean, durable finish, use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) by hand, or run a straight stitch on a sewing machine 1/4 inch below the fold. If machine-stitching, use thread that matches your denim and a medium stitch length. Keep the line straight and parallel to the fold. Hand-stitching takes longer but is nearly invisible; machine-stitching is faster and more secure. Choose based on your patience and the jean's formality.
If using a machine, practice on scrap fabric first. If hand-stitching, use a needle threaded with doubled thread for strength.
Step five · 10 minutes
Trim excess and finish the inside
Once stitched, trim any excess fabric inside the fold to about 1/2 inch above your stitch line. This reduces bulk and prevents the hem from looking lumpy under the fabric. If you're concerned about fraying (especially with non-selvedge denim), finish the cut edge with a zigzag stitch on your machine or a quick hand-whip stitch. Flip the jeans right-side out and try them on.
Don't trim too close to your stitching—leave at least 1/2 inch for safety and durability.
How to know it works.
The hem should feel smooth and lie flat against your leg with no visible stitching from the outside. When you look at the inside, you'll see your stitch line, but the original factory hem remains pristine and untouched at the very bottom. The jeans should break naturally at your ankle without bunching or pulling.
Questions at the mirror.
What if I accidentally cut the original hem?
You can still salvage this. Fold the fabric up as instructed, but now you'll be working with a raw edge instead of a finished one. Finish that raw edge with a zigzag stitch or binding tape to prevent fraying, then proceed with hemming as normal. It won't be quite as clean, but it's still wearable.
Can I use fabric glue instead of stitching?
Hem tape or fabric glue works for temporary fixes, but it won't last through repeated washing and wearing. Stitching—whether by hand or machine—is the only reliable method for a hem that stays put.
How much should I leave for the fold?
Ideally, 1.5 to 2.5 inches of fabric above the original hem. Less than 1.5 inches and you won't have enough to fold and stitch securely; more than 2.5 inches creates unnecessary bulk inside the leg.
Should I wash the jeans before hemming?
Yes, especially raw or unwashed denim. Denim shrinks, sometimes significantly, in the first wash. Hem after washing to ensure the length is accurate and won't change after you wear them.