How To · Fashion · Build
The Right Way to Hem Trousers
A proper hem separates well-fitted trousers from slouchy ones. Whether you're shortening a new pair or salvaging an old favorite, this method works for most fabrics and skill levels.
5 min read · IrisThe hem is the difference between trousers that fit and trousers that fit *you*. A cropped length can modernize an old pair; a proper hem length grounds your proportions. Whether you're hemming after a tailoring mishap, adjusting for new shoes, or finishing raw edges on unfinished trousers, the technique is the same: measure twice, fold once, stitch with intention.
This guide covers hand-stitching, which gives you control and produces invisible results. If you have a sewing machine, the same principles apply—just use a straight stitch instead of a needle and thread. Either way, the goal is a fold that sits at your natural ankle bone, with fabric that doesn't bunch or pull.
A proper hem sits at your ankle bone and moves with your body, not against it.
What you'll need.
- 01Pins or fabric chalk
- 02Measuring tape
- 03Sharp fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- 04Pinking shears (optional)
- 05Iron and ironing board
- 06Hand-sewing needle
- 07Thread in matching color
- 08Seam ripper (for corrections)
Step one · 1 minute
Determine your hem length
Put on the trousers with the shoes you'll wear them with most. Stand in front of a mirror. The hem should graze the top of your shoe without bunching or dragging. Mark this point on both legs with a pin or fabric chalk. Measure from the crotch seam down to your mark on both legs—the numbers should match. If they don't, adjust one side until they're equal.
Wear the exact heel height you plan to pair with these trousers. A quarter-inch difference in shoe height shifts your entire proportion.
Step two · 2 minutes
Measure and mark your fold line
Remove the trousers. Lay one leg flat on a table with the inseam aligned. Measure up 1.5 inches from your marked hem point and draw a light line with chalk or a fabric pen across the entire width of the leg. This is your fold line—the extra fabric that will become the hem. Repeat on the other leg, then check that both lines are at the same distance from the crotch.
The 1.5-inch allowance works for most weights of fabric. Heavier wools or denim may need 2 inches; lightweight silks can use 1 inch.
Step three · 2 minutes
Trim excess length and finish raw edges
Cut along your fold line with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. You now have a 1.5-inch allowance below your original hem mark. If your trousers have raw edges (unfinished seams), trim them with pinking shears or a zigzag stitch on a machine to prevent fraying. If the edges are already finished, skip this step.
Pinking shears create a chevron edge that resists fraying better than a straight cut. They cost $12–20 and last for years.
Step four · 2 minutes
Fold and press your hem
Fold the raw edge up 0.75 inches and press with an iron on medium heat. Then fold the entire allowance up to your original hem mark and press again. You should now have a crisp, doubled fold with no raw edges visible from the outside. The fold should be even all the way around the leg.
Press as you go. A sharp crease makes hand-stitching easier and the finished hem look more professional.
Step five · 2 minutes
Hand-stitch the hem with a blind stitch
Thread a needle and knot the end. Starting inside the fold, bring the needle out through the fold line so the knot sits hidden inside. Take a tiny stitch (2–3 millimeters) into the trouser leg just above the fold, then slide the needle through the fold for about 0.5 inches and come back out. Repeat this pattern all the way around the leg. Your stitches should be invisible from the outside and evenly spaced.
Use thread that matches your trousers exactly. If you can't find a match, go one shade darker—it's less visible than lighter thread.
Step six · 1 minute
Press and try on
Knot off your thread on the inside of the hem and trim. Press the finished hem one more time with an iron to set your stitches and remove any wrinkles from handling. Put the trousers on with your intended shoes and check the length and hang in a mirror. The hem should sit evenly, move with your leg, and feel secure.
If you notice the hem pulls or twists, you may have stitched too tightly. Loosen your tension slightly and re-stitch any problem areas.
How to know your hem is done right
A finished hem should be invisible from the outside, sit at a consistent length around the entire leg, and feel secure when you walk. The stitches inside should be small and evenly spaced, with no puckering or pulling in the fabric.
Questions at the mirror.
My hem is uneven on one leg. How do I fix it?
Remove the stitches on the uneven side with a seam ripper. Re-measure from the crotch seam to ensure both legs are the same length, then re-fold and re-stitch. Unevenness usually comes from measuring the finished length instead of the crotch-to-hem distance.
Can I machine-stitch instead of hand-stitch?
Yes. Use a straight stitch with matching thread and stitch 0.25 inches from the fold. Machine stitches are visible from the inside but faster and equally durable. Use a walking foot if your machine has one—it prevents puckering on thick fabrics.
What if my trousers are too short to hem?
If you have less than 1 inch of fabric below your desired hem length, the trousers are too short. Consider a tailor for a professional solution, or accept that these trousers may not work for your proportions.
How long does a hand-stitched hem last?
A properly stitched hem lasts as long as the trousers themselves—often years. Re-stitch any loose sections as soon as you notice them. A small repair takes 10 minutes and prevents a full hem separation.